Key points
- A game with a spare in every frame and 9 pins on the first ball is worth 190 points, without a single strike.
- 3-6-9 system (right-hander): feet 3 boards right for the 2, 6 for the 4, 9 for the 7, same arrow as for the strike.
- For the right-side pins (3, 6, 10), you move left, often by 4, 8 and 12 boards.
- The 10-pin (right-hander) and the 7-pin (left-hander) are played cross-lane, preferably with a ball that hooks very little.
- A split: the headpin has fallen and at least two groups of non-adjacent pins remain, like the famous 7-10.
Why do spares matter as much as strikes?
Spares make the difference between a 120 average and a 170 average. A bowler who never gets a strike but converts every spare after knocking down 9 pins on the first ball scores 190 points: each frame is worth 10 plus a bonus of 9. Conversely, a bowler who alternates strikes and “holes” (open frames) often tops out at around 150.
The good news is that spares are easier to master than strikes. They depend neither on entry angle nor on a chain reaction: you just need to send the ball to one or a few specific pins. With a fixed method, you improve quickly. If bonus scoring still puzzles you, see how to keep score or try the score calculator.
How does the 3-6-9 system work?
The 3-6-9 system means keeping the same target arrow as for your strike ball and only moving your feet on the approach, by a number of boards that depends on the pin you need to knock down. The target never changes; it is the angle of the line that changes. You remember three numbers instead of memorising a position for every leave.
The principle: for a pin on the left, move your feet to the right; for a pin on the right, move them to the left. Always work from the key pin, the pin closest to the bowler in the group left standing.
| Key pin (right-hander) | Foot adjustment | Target | Example leaves |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 or 5 (pocket) | 0 | Strike arrow | 1-2-4, 5, 1-2-8, 5-8 |
| 2 or 8 | 3 boards right | Strike arrow | 2, 8, 2-4, 2-4-5 |
| 4 | 6 boards right | Strike arrow | 4, 4-7 |
| 7 | 9 boards right | Strike arrow | 7 |
| 3 or 9 | 4 boards left | Strike arrow | 3, 9, 3-6, 3-6-10 |
| 6 | 8 boards left | Strike arrow | 6, 6-10 |
| 10 | 12 boards left | Strike arrow | 10 |
For the right-side pins, the move is bigger (4, 8 and 12 instead of 3, 6 and 9) because a right-hander's ball hooks to the left and therefore “moves away” from those pins. Some coaches actually speak of a 3-6-9 system on the left and 4-8-12 on the right. These numbers are starting points: if your ball hooks a lot or very little, fine-tune them by a board or two.
For a left-hander, everything is reversed: 3, 6 and 9 boards to the left for the 3, the 6 and the 10; 4, 8 and 12 to the right for the 2, the 4 and the 7.
How do you pick up the 10-pin and the 7-pin?
The 10-pin (for a right-hander) and the 7-pin (for a left-hander) are played cross-lane, from the opposite side of the approach, with as straight a path as possible. They are the most frequently missed spares, both for casual bowlers and in leagues, because the pin sits right at the edge of the lane with the gutter just beside it.
- Stand on the left of the approach (right-hander facing the 10), with your sliding foot around board 30 to 35.
- Aim at the second or third arrow from the right, or draw a mental straight line to the pin.
- Shoulders facing the pin, not parallel to the foul line. Walk in the direction of the target.
- Release without rotation: hand behind the ball, as if shaking hands. Hook is the enemy of this spare, since it brings the ball back towards the centre.
For a right-hander's 7-pin, the logic is the same in mirror image: start from the right of the approach, with a cross-lane line to the left. It is generally less difficult, because a right-hander's natural hook goes in the right direction.
Do you need a special ball for spares?
Yes, as soon as you throw a hook. Regular bowlers use a polyester (plastic) ball for spares, because it reacts very little to oil and friction: it goes straight where you aim it. A reactive ball, designed to hook, can drift several boards and miss a single pin.
If you play with the centre's balls, you already have this solution to hand: house balls are almost always polyester. Just take one of your weight for spares. The different materials are compared in how to choose a bowling ball.
What is a split and can you convert it?
A split is a leave where the headpin has fallen and at least two groups of non-adjacent pins remain (for example 7-10 or 4-6). On score sheets, it is often marked by a circle around the number. Some splits are converted regularly, others almost never.
| Split | Nickname | Difficulty | How to play it |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3-10 / 2-7 | Baby split | Low | Send the ball between the two pins so it hits both |
| 5-7 / 5-10 | — | Medium | Hit the 5 on the side to send it into the back pin |
| 4-7-10 / 6-7-10 | — | High | Make sure of the two pins on one side; the third is a bonus |
| 8-10 / 7-9 | — | High | Hit the front pin very thinly to send it sideways |
| 4-6 | — | Very high | Often, aim for a single pin |
| 4-6-7-10 | Big four | Very high | Aim for two pins on the same side |
| 7-10 | Goal posts, bedposts | Extreme | Almost impossible; aim for a single pin |
The 7-10 is the most famous split in bowling. The two pins are in opposite corners of the pin deck, and the only way to convert it is to send one into the other by hitting it very thinly on the side. Even professionals make it very rarely.
Should you always try to convert a split?
No. On a very difficult split, the best decision is often to aim for a single pin to make sure of one more point. In a handicap league, every pin counts, and a spectacular attempt that ends up in the gutter costs more than a safe pin. The rule of thumb: go for baby splits and splits where one pin can be sent into the other (5-7, 5-10, 3-10); on a 7-10, a 4-6 or a big four, make sure of as many pins as possible.
The 10th frame is the exception when there are few points left to play for: if only the spare can win you the match, go for it.
How do you practise spares?
- The “10 and 7” game: play a practice game aiming at the 10 with the first ball and the 7 with the second, in every frame. Count your hits out of 20 attempts.
- A single system: write down your 3-6-9 moves (or your own numbers) and apply them without improvising. If an adjustment fails three times in a row, correct it by one board.
- The same routine: take the same preparation time for a spare as for your first ball. Rushing is a major cause of missed spares.
- Competitive play: the pressure of a league teaches you to handle decisive spares. In Morocco, the ASBM (Association Sportive du Bowling Marocain, the Moroccan Bowling Sports Association) runs a weekly league at the Megamall in Rabat; the other organisations are listed on the associations page.
To understand how your first ball leaves one pin combination or another, read how to bowl a strike: reading your leaves properly also helps you choose your spare line.
Frequently asked questions
What is the 3-6-9 system in bowling?
It is a spare method in which you keep the same arrow as for the strike and move your feet 3, 6 or 9 boards depending on the pin to knock down. For a right-hander, 3 boards right for the 2, 6 for the 4 and 9 for the 7.
How do you knock down the 10-pin?
For a right-hander, stand on the left of the approach and bowl cross-lane to the right, with a ball that spins as little as possible. A polyester ball makes this spare much easier.
Can you convert a 7-10 split?
It is possible but extremely rare: you have to hit one of the two pins very thinly to send it into the other. Even professionals manage it very rarely.
What is the difference between a split and a spare?
A spare means knocking down all the remaining pins with the second ball. A split is a leave of non-adjacent pins, after a first ball that knocked down the headpin.
What do you score in a game of nothing but spares?
It depends on the first ball of each frame. With 9 pins on the first ball and a spare in every frame, the game is worth 190 points.
Sources and references



